[Critter Forge] afflikshoN's Guide to Critter Forge

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Many people want to know the mechanics, gameplay, and intricacies of Critter Forge. So, I have compiled information from what I and my syndicate, along with the community, have learned playing this game. Below is my guide; forgive me if it’s incomplete, I plan on adding more as I go along. Special thanks goes out to my syndicate, KLK (Ashgar, Raamon, Samael, thebestforger, and tibiaownz), for helping with the info. Also, thanks to the people over at EdgeBee for a great game and some good info on their wiki.

If you want to know, or question, whether I’m qualified to be giving any advice at all, check this out:

http://img24.imageshack.us/i/rankingsrb.jpg/

BEGINNERS’ BREEDING TIPS

First, get used to utilizing vials. I use the 3 star vials, though they’re not as cost-efficient as the 2 stars vials. TO EXTRACT DNA, CLICK AND DRAG AN EMPTY VIAL FROM YOUR INVENTORY ONTO THE CREATURE FROM WHICH YOU WISH TO EXTRACT. This works both in your stables and in safaris after you’ve defeated a creature.

Save your Eggcelerators, if you have any, for the higher-tier creatures. Gestation times get longer and longer, so no sense in wasting them on a 6-hour gestation when down the road the gestations can get up to 20+ hours.

I will talk about breeding appendages later, but for now, let’s get onto the breeding guide. For a visual reference of the information below, see the following URL:

http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/1600/familycirclecomplete.jpg (Shows T1-T4 breeding)

http://i42.tinypic.com/ebatnd.jpg (Shows T1-T3 breeding in a simpler fashion)

TIER 2 BREEDING

Raptor: To get a raptor, breed a lizard with a bird. Your offspring will, obviously, be a lizard or bird. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a bird or a lizard) and breed it with ANY bird or lizard (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. bird/bird or lizard/lizard). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation lizard/bird, and breed it with ANY lizard or bird (again, no bird/bird or lizard/lizard combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS THIRD GENERATION WILL BE A RAPTOR.

Spider: To get a spider, breed a wolf with a moth. Your offspring will, obviously, be a wolf or moth. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a wolf or moth) and breed it with ANY wolf or moth (make sure they’re not the same, i.e. wolf/wolf or moth/moth). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation wolf/moth, and breed it with ANY wolf/moth (again, no wolf/wolf or moth/moth combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS THIRD GENERATION WILL BE A SPIDER.

Owlbear: To get an owlbear, breed a wolf with a bird. Your offspring will, obviously, be a wolf or bird. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a wolf or bird) and breed it with ANY wolf or bird (make sure they’re not the same, i.e. wolf/wolf or bird/bird). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation wolf/bird, and breed it with ANY wolf/bird (again, no wolf/wolf or bird/bird combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS THIRD GENERATION WILL BE AN OWLBEAR.

Crustacean: To get a crustacean, breed a fish with a moth. Your offspring will, obviously, be a fish or moth. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a fish or moth) and breed it with ANY fish or moth (make sure they’re not the same, i.e. fish/fish or moth/moth). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation fish/moth, and breed it with ANY fish/moth (again, no fish/fish or moth/moth combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS THIRD GENERATION WILL BE A CRUSTACEAN.

Toad: To get a toad, breed a lizard with a fish. Your offspring will, obviously, be a lizard or fish. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a fish or a lizard) and breed it with ANY fish or lizard (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. fish/fish or lizard/lizard). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation lizard/fish, and breed it with ANY lizard or fish (again, no fish/fish or lizard/lizard combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS THIRD GENERATION WILL BE A TOAD.

TIER 3 BREEDING

Crocodile: To get a crocodile, breed a lizard with a crustacean. Your offspring will, obviously, be a lizard or crustacean. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a crustacean or a lizard) and breed it with ANY crustacean or lizard (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. crustacean/crustacean or lizard/lizard). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation lizard/crustacean, and breed it with ANY lizard or crustacean (again, no crustacean/crustacean or lizard/lizard combos). Name the offspring of this pairing with a “IV” at the end of its name. Take your fourth generation lizard/crustacean, and breed it with ANY lizard or crustacean (again, no crustacean/crustacean or lizard/lizard combos). Name this offspring with a “V” at the end of its name. Finally, take the fifth generation lizard/crustacean, and breed it with ANY lizard or crustacean (again, no crustacean/crustacean or lizard/lizard combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS FIFTH GENERATION WILL BE A CROCODILE.

Calamari: To get a calamari, breed a spider with a fish. Your offspring will, obviously, be a spider or a fish. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a spider or a fish) and breed it with ANY spider or fish (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. fish/fish or spider/spider). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation spider/fish, and breed it with ANY spider or fish (again, no spider/spider or fish/fish combos). Name the offspring of this pairing with a “IV” at the end of its name to denote it being of the fourth generation. Take your fourth generation spider/fish, and breed it with ANY spider or fish (again, no spider/spider or fish/fish combos). Name this offspring with a “V” at the end of its name. Finally, take the fifth generation spider/fish, and breed it with ANY spider or fish (again, no spider/spider or fish/fish). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS FIFTH GENERATION WILL BE A CALAMARI.

Hornet: To get a hornet, breed a moth with an owlbear. Your offspring will, obviously, be a moth or an owlbear. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a moth or an owlbear) and breed it with ANY moth or owlbear (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. moth/moth or owlbear/owlbear). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation moth/owlbear, and breed it with ANY moth or owlbear (again, no moth/moth or owlbear/owlbear combos). Name the offspring of this pairing with a “IV” at the end of its name to denote it being of the fourth generation. Take your fourth generation moth/owlbear, and breed it with ANY moth or owlbear (again, no moth/moth or owlbear/owlbear combos). Name this offspring with a “V” at the end of its name. Finally, take the fifth generation moth/owlbear, and breed it with ANY moth or owlbear (again, no moth/moth or owlbear/owlbear combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS FIFTH GENERATION WILL BE A HORNET.

Mammoth: To get a mammoth, breed a raptor with a wolf. Your offspring will, obviously, be a raptor or a wolf. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a raptor or a wolf) and breed it with ANY raptor or wolf (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. wolf/wolf or raptor/raptor). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation raptor/wolf, and breed it with ANY raptor or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or raptor/raptor combos). Name the offspring of this pairing with a “IV” at the end of its name to denote it being of the fourth generation. Take your fourth generation raptor/wolf, and breed it with ANY raptor or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or raptor/raptor combos). Name this offspring with a “V” at the end of its name. Finally, take the fifth generation raptor/wolf, and breed it with ANY raptor or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or raptor/raptor combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS FIFTH GENERATION WILL BE A MAMMOTH.

Walrus: To get a walrus, breed a toad with a wolf. Your offspring will, obviously, be a toad or a wolf. I recommend naming it with a “II” at the end of its name to denote that it’s second generation. Take your second generation (whether it’s a toad or a wolf) and breed it with ANY toad or wolf (make sure you’re not breeding the same family, i.e. wolf/wolf or toad/toad). Name the offspring with a “III” at the end of its name. Then, take the third generation toad/wolf, and breed it with ANY toad or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or toad/toad combos). Name the offspring of this pairing with a “IV” at the end of its name to denote it being of the fourth generation. Take your fourth generation toad/wolf, and breed it with ANY toad or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or toad/toad combos). Name this offspring with a “V” at the end of its name. Finally, take the fifth generation toad/wolf, and breed it with ANY toad or wolf (again, no wolf/wolf or toad/toad combos). THE OFFSPRING OF THIS FIFTH GENERATION WILL BE A WALRUS.

TIER 4 BREEDING

I’m not going to write out all of the Tier 4 breeding patterns since they get lengthy. The rule of thumb is this: you must go two more generations than you did for Tier 3. So, the offspring of your SEVENTH generation offspring will be Tier 4. Here are the combos:

Dragon: Breed a raptor with a crocodile.

Hydra: Breed a spider with a calamari.

Gorilla: Breed a mammoth with an owlbear.

Tortoise: Breed a walrus with a toad.

Mantis: Breed a crustacean with a hornet.

 
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QUESTING AND SAFARI GUIDE

Items to Bring on Your Quest or Safari

  • A creature of at least level 15; most quest targets start at around level 20. Your creature has to be able to
    defeat the quest target or else you won’t be able to capture it.
  • At least one vial. I recommend, starting out, to use the 2 star vial. Once you have money, always get the 3
    star. If you’re interested in catching other creatures, bring more than one vial.
  • Bring some health items. I recommend, for tier one creatures, national brand soap.
  • Some happiness items. These can’t hurt, especially if you lose some matches. I recommend, for tier one,
    using the flying discus.

After you have these items, it’s time to quest. Head over to the Downtown district (on the bottom location bar) and see what your first quest is.

How to Complete Your Quests

Once you know your target and its location, go to the airport, select your location, and click start safari. Then choose your creature. I recommend taking a creature that can both defeat your target AND has full stamina. Creatures that can use healing or have the strength ability are good for questing.

Once your arrive, you’ll see a board with 25 tiles. Hidden in there are two tiles that have the quest creature. So, if you’re questing with a creature with 5 stamina, you have a 40% chance to find your target (per excursion, not per guess). It’s kind of like go fish, but if you’re wrong (don’t click a quest tile), you get either an item, money, stamina, or a fight with a non-quest creature. These fights can be regular (blue wolf icon) or difficult (red dragon icon). The red dragon icons have harder creatures and often have uncommon and rare appendages or higher-tier creatures. You lose one stamina for every fight in which you engage, and you gain one stamina whenever you turn over a tile that is a heart.

There is no special pattern or schedule to where the quest creature is. It is random. Trust me; I’ve done MANY safaris and there is absolutely NO pattern. Choose whichever ones you want. Once you find AND DEFEAT your quest creature, don’t forget to take its sample. Sometimes, the sample fails. Tough luck, it happens. Keep trying to find your target or, when you’re out of stamina, quit the safari, take a new creature, and try again.

When you finally capture your target, quit the safari (or finish out your stamina, if you want) and return to the Downtown district. Drag the full DNA vial that says “Quest” from your inventory onto the picture of your target. Congratulations, you’re done with the quest, and your next quest will earn you $40 more dollars.

Locations of Tier One Creatures

Below you’ll find a list of creatures with their common locations.

  • Wolf: Himalayas or Black Forest. Sometimes in the Everglades.
  • Lizard: Sahara or Savannah. Sometimes the Black Forest.
  • Bird: Himalayas or Black Forest. Sometimes in the Savannah.
  • Moth: Everglades or Savannah. Sometimes in the Black Forrest.
  • Fish: Galapagos or the Great Barrier Reef. Sometimes in the Everglades.
 
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Leveling and Coliseum Guide.

Leveling

It’s difficult to separate leveling from the functions of the coliseum, but let me give a brief overview. The goal of most of us is to breed a Tier 4 creature and get it to max level so we can dominate. Well, on the road to that dream there is a lot involved, including leveling other, lower tier creatures. Every tier has a level cap:

  • Tier I: Level cap is 40. You have 5 stamina and stamina regens @ 1/5 minutes. You can have up to a maximum of 8 traits.
  • Tier II: Level cap is 50. You have 6 stamina and stamina regens @ 1/10 minutes. You can have up to a maximum of 10 traits.
  • Tier III: Level cap is 75. You have 7 stamina and stamina regens @ 1/20 minutes. You can have up to a maximum of 15 traits.
  • Tier IV: Level cap is 100. You have 8 stamina and stamina regens @ 1/60 minutes. You can have up to a maximum of 20 traits.

Now, keep in mind that the above information is given without factoring in any traits/injections (i.e. Energetic, Barren, Long Lived, etc.).

Naturally, levels are gained very quickly in the lower levels and require more and more experience to the next level as the creature level progresses. By the time you’ve got a lvl. 141 Dragon, you’ll be lucky if you’re getting 2% level progress per fight.

Don’t let this discourage you; once you’re in the upper levels, levels tend to matter less and less (a level 4 fighting a level 1 has 4 times as many skillpoints, whereas a level 140 fighting a level 120 only has 14% more skillpoints).

How to Level

This is what you all really care about. What is the cheapest, most time-efficient way to level? Well, in short, it’s the Coliseum. In terms of time efficiency, nothing beats it. When it comes to cost efficiency, it takes a long time before quests are more profitable per stamina spent than Coliseum. What I recommend is making your creature, whatever you may choose, and then heading over the the Coliseum.

Once there, you’ll see 6 available creatures to choose from. I recommend choosing the weakest of the top two (they are 1 level above you and, thus, will yield more experience). You can tell the weakest, usually, by which one is the lowest tier or has the less threatening appendages (no lion’s tail, no snail antennae, no set pieces, etc.).

When you decide which of the top two creatures on the list is weakest, left click him and then select “Quick Fight.” This doesn’t do anything detrimental and instantly simulates your fight. If you want to watch it, just click “Play” afterwards. You don’t have to close the winner/loser window that pops up, just drag it somewhere where it’s not in the way and repeat the selection/quick fight process.

Keep in mind that if you’re adjusting or tweaking skill setups, you may want to watch the fight. You can adjust fight replay speed by going to settings > battle speed (ranging from 1x to 5x).

Alternate Leveling

If you’d like to advance in the quest chain and shoot for achievements (such as the coveted “Gopher” achievement), then try leveling through quests. This is slower and, initially, less profitable than the Coliseum. In the long-run, however, quests are much more profitable than spending all of your stamina on Coliseum fights. Right now, for example, I’m getting upwards of $4,500 per quest completed. That’s a lot of dough; especially considering you often don’t have to expend all of your stamina completing a quest.

In terms of time, quests take longer to level your creature. The process of going Downtown > Airport > Quest > Airport > Downtown and, sometimes, being unsuccessful, cuts into your leveling time. Either way, I recommend having at least one or two creatures that are used for leveling in the quests so that you can progress effectively toward your better rewards (items and money) and achievements.

 
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Reserved for advices to guide. xD

SHORT STARTING GUIDE

STEP 1
Get a wolf with Lion Tail.
STEP 2
Put Strength ability(blue), add Duration to it, if your wolf has it.
STEP 3
Set it to “When self” – “Condition” – “No positive condition”
STEP 4
Start killing opponents at Coliseum, while leveling your wolf and upgrading Strength/Duration abilities.
STEP 5
Increase the amount of creature stalls.

Repeat step 1 till 4 until you get desired amount of $.

Image(Sucky graphics provided by MS Paint ©): Link

Also – alternative breeding image for T1-T3, for easier comprehension:Link

 
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I guess I'll kick in what i've gleaned on traits. I'm not going to get into what the traits do, as the wiki, as incomplete as it is, covers them pretty well. Also, this is by no means going to be a complete list, only the ones I can confirm by working / breeding certain creatures extensively. If you have a creature with a combination of appendages or species that give the same trait, the trait will be opened at however many of that trait is represented. So if you have a wolf with a shark fin, Voracious should open up at level two. This does not affect the maximum level a trait can be however. Traits marked with a * are those I can't 100% say are associated with the listed source, but I have very good reason to suspect it. All Critters - Environmental Affinity* T1 - 2-3 traits +EA Wolf Traits - Voracious, Aggressive, Anemic Lizard Traits - Immunized*, Healer*, Feeble* Bird Traits - Nimble, Flimsy*, Liberator* T2 Owlbear - Aggressive, Barren Jovial T3 Mammoth - Bruiser, Reasonable, Slow, Close-Minded x2, Aggressive, Tank T4 Gorilla - Warrior, Bruiser, Close-Minded, Aggressive Dorsal Appendages Furry Mohawk - Warrior Bony Plates (Stegosaurus) - Slow* Shark Fin - Voracious Small Spikes - None* Head Appendages Snail Antennae - Antlers - Dumb* Goat Horns - Aggressive Unicorn Horn - Good* Dragon or Demon Horns - Evil Lizard Tongue - None* Triple Horn - None * Jaw Appendages Tusk - Underpowered or Sickly (I suspect underpowered)* Tail Appendages Bird - Energetic Lion - Jealous Ankylosaur (Spiked / Morning Star Tail) - Clumsy Feet Appendages Footed Claws (At least on wolves) - Aggressive* (May be Tusk) Small Toe claws - Environmental Affinity (Thunder or Nature)* Hooves - Underpowered or Sickly (I suspect sickly)* Wing Appendages Bird Wing - Agile Dragon or Demon Wings - Evil Bat Wings - Dumb* Fur - Confusing Edited 6-23-10
 
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Nice info fellas.

 
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liberator is birds, not antenna (so is flimsy). I know goat horns give aggressive.

 
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Just tested frog feet, I believe they give Dispel + Dispel II (the addition pieces). Not sure, but it’s possible.

 
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Toby that has nothing to do with advice; post that crap on the comments not in the guide.

 
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For taking samples of your own creatures i recommend using the 1-star containers. 1-star containers are the best cost/success rate and if it happens to fail, it does not take away an extraction. This is only for saving money of course.

 
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Due to update with market prices, it is now the no-star containers thats best for extractions of your own creatures.

 
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Yeah Silverax is right; if you fail extracting from your stable creatures there’s no penalty; you only lose a vial.

 
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This is really good and helpful. Thanks. :)

Still, the Coliseum/Leveling Guide would be pretty useful for us starting nubs. ;(

 
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http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/6503/raptertrack.jpg here is the picture form of what to do to get a rapter

 
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You spelled raptor wrong but otherwise yep. You should make your own topic posting all of those. Also, you can imbed images

 
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i’ll try but takes time and i want clean pictures as i tried to have/use

 
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thx to this guide i got a raptor in the first 10 min i played

 
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Originally posted by lukediewalker:

thx to this guide i got a raptor in the first 10 min i played

Glad to hear it. On to a dragon!

 
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could you add a creature → food type guide aswell

 
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so wait does spider and bird make anything or is it just those?!?!?!?

 
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As far as I know:
Fish/Crustaceans eat Fish foods [Ex: Smelly Fish/Cheap Sushi]
Wolves and Owlbears eat Meat foods [Ex: Meat Scraps/Subprime Meat]
Moths eat Vegetable foods [Ex: Cheap Veggies]

 
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Originally posted by Zeysir:

As far as I know:
Fish/Crustaceans eat Fish foods [Ex: Smelly Fish/Cheap Sushi]
Wolves and Owlbears eat Meat foods [Ex: Meat Scraps/Subprime Meat]
Moths eat Vegetable foods [Ex: Cheap Veggies]

it only helps a little you dont even need food it just helps also it doesnt matter how many stars it still work.
just does worse

 
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Here is maybe a helpful guide
if you have a lot of pets and one good one dont waste money on the bad ones (especially if your getting rid of them) if they have no health or happiness they still can duel and give you a little cash maybe none of them win but they give you some extra cash (i would focus on one of your pets untill you have tons of good pets)
hope this helps you it helped me get a little extra cash cuz i got 3 sucky pets and each lossing match i play give 3$ and 15 X 3 = 45$